Pack Light, Go Fast

I’m a bit of a minimalist and it definitely came through with my packing.  I place more value on experiences than things and my philosophy of minimalism embraces that sentiment.  The basic idea is that if you’re moving lightly through life, unencumbered by the weight of things (both physical and mental), you have space to focus making on making memories and taking everything you can from the moment.

I’ve followed a variety of writers and bloggers that focus on minimalism and simplicity, but for packing, sites like OneBag and Pack Light, Go Fast are king.  Those two sites definitely guided me through packing light. (Woohoo! I made it on Pack Light, Go Fast. Check it out.)

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The result? Everything I need for the next four months - and beyond - are in this bag (Patagonia MLC - great bag), which comes out to about 23 lbs (sorry for quality of photos): 

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The contents: 

Packing list

clothes (one week’s worth):

- 3 cotton / 2 short + 1 long synthetic cotton T-shirt

- 1 cotton / 1 synthetic button up

- 4 socks / 4 boxer brief

- 2 athletic shorts / 2 khaki shorts

- hat, sunglasses, bandana

shoes:

- sandals

- running shoes

electronics:

- MacBook

- iPhone

- Kindle

misc:

- travel towel

- toiletries

- medicine

- journal + pen/pencil

- water bottle

- light backpack for weekend / day trips

- books: Always We Begin Again, Tao Te Ching

- passport + wallet

- important docs

Comes out to about 23 lbs.

Traveling with long pants, pull over and jacket.

Packing light, moving fast.

An Unexpected Journey

This semester I will be studying, traveling and doing service projects abroad in Qatar and India along with a handful of other students from Carnegie Mellon and two professors (husband and wife).  We will study at CMU’s Qatar campus in Doha for a month and then head to Wardha (central India) to stay at Gandhi’s ashram.  After roughly the same amount of time, the group will then head south to Chennai.  Another month or so will then take us to the end of April and a final trip north to Delhi and Agra.  At that point, my official semester will be over but I’m hoping that my adventure will not be quite done.  I haven’t bought my return flight and I’m planning on doing some extra traveling while I still have the freedom of youth.

For the next couple months I will be writing about my experiences here at The Orange Sky.  When I went to Malawi in the summer of 2009, I kept a blog with the same name, its namesake one of my favorite songs by Alexi Murdoch. (I wrote a short piece about another one of his songs - he is a fantastic artist.) An excerpt from my first post that explains the name:

The song always struck a chord with me.  The singer expresses his dream of an orange sky, with his brother and sister standing by.  Family has always been important and influential to me. In the case of my adventure to Malawi, they are the reason why I am going.  Years ago my sister went to Malawi with my mother, and the following years my brother took a trip.  From their own experiences in Africa, my brother and sister have set their minds to impacting the world for the better using their outstanding education (brother recently graduated from Stanford and sister will be a junior at Rice University next fall).  They are an inspiration to me and no matter where they are on the globe, listening to the song connects me to them.

Not only that, but Murdoch sings that “my salvation lies in your love.  I’m a strong believer that the well being of every person lies in the compassion and empathy of others.  I think our capacity to connect with others while we live our short time in this world is fundamental to our existence. While Alexi Murdoch enchants his listeners to imagine an orange sky, I hope my own experiences in Malawi open my eyes to the discovery of my very own orange sky.

I want to have some continuity with my experiences abroad and the philosophy that guided me through my first trip.  Those posts were probably some of the best writing I’ve ever done because I focused on telling good stories about what I was doing and the people I met.  My promise to you as a reader is that I will only tell good stories.  Hopefully my creative juices will be flowing as well and I will keep writing more for my personal blog.

I decided to not bring a real camera (besides my trusty iPhone) and with it comes a challenge to myself.  I don’t want to be searching for moments to take pictures, I want to seek out the moments intrinsically.  As a writer, I have laid down the gauntlet to be able to describe my experiences well enough that I won’t need pictures looking back.  Of course, I will definitely use my phone’s camera but I wanted to focus more on the experiences and the resulting writing.

I can’t help but think of The Hobbit as I set out on my own unexpected journey.  I had always planned on studying abroad somewhere Spanish-speaking to utilize my (now awful) proficiency in the language.  However, last year the professor organizing the trip emailed me about the opportunity, saying he thought I might be a good fit.  Like Bilbo, I’m setting out on a journey that I didn’t quite plan for, traveling with wizard of sorts - the Professor Slates - and a motley crew, hoping to do some sort of good and packing light bags to leave room for adventure.

Here’s to discovering the next orange sky.    

Looking Back

Note: I’m setting the publish date of this post to August 2009 in order for it to make sense chronologically, but I’m really posting from 2014.

In my very first post on The Orange Sky, I explained what was in store for me in the summer ahead and how I decided on the blog’s name.

Next, I wrote about my first impression of Malawi: very positive.

Very quickly I dove into work at the busy hospital.

As I settled into the work, I began to use weekends for a little bit of adventure: exploring the surrounding area and making trips into the city.

Speaking of the work, I got to know lots of amazing and committed people.

As my time in Malawi came to a close, I thought about what I was bringing back not much stuff but a lot of experience.

A cornerstone to my experience in Malawi was seeing the ethic of reciprocity at work.

The Ethic of Reciprocity

The community here at St. Gabriel’s has done nothing but welcome me, a complete outsider to their world.

Many people here have trusted me with their children (much to my surprise); as a result, I’ve become very attached to many of them:

Prince

Faith

Christopher Dallas

As well as a few others:

Rodrick

Sister Honesta

Malifa

They’ve invited us to explain derivatives on home-made chalkboards:

An honest attempt

Shared many dinners with us:

A gathering to be remembered

Offered sugar cane:

All I can say: I tried… Oh, I tried.

Let us explore their villages:

Gogos - “grandmothers” - in a local village

Travel their scenic routes:

Beautiful path in the woods on a long run

The ethic of reciprocity, otherwise known as the Golden Rule, demands that we treat each other how we want to be treated. This principle is a global concept: the ethic of reciprocity shows up Christianity, Buddhism, Baha’i Faith, Confucianism, Hinduism, Judaism, Sikhism, Taoism, Jainism and Islam.

The community here at St. Gabriel’s treated me well. As a firm believer of the ethic of reciprocity, I have tried to give back.

After many hours with Matthews, who I would now call a good friend, we came the close of our translating sessions (FrontlineSMS Messages – upwards of 4,300 messages completed!).

The completed incubator, ready for action at St. Gabriel’s:

The training sessions with the Surgery Ward attendants also came to a close. Empowered with knowledge and a set of DVDs that provide videos of the lessons they learned, they are ready to work:

Patricia, Dorothy, Alinafe and the cameraman

Their hard work paid off:

Patricia and Alinafe helping a patient using crutches

My sister and I measured the pots in the guardians’ (who take care of patients – feeding and washing them) smoke room for the technology team at Rice University to create a energy-efficient pot design that greatly reduces smoke output:

Hazy conditions

My bags are lighter as I leave – many gifts were given. The numerous polos I brought to wear at the hospital have dwindled in supply, soccer balls have been distributed and gifts given:

A new dress

The next day, Grace has a new outfit:

All smiles

In the Warm Heart of Africa, the ethic of reciprocity thrives.

Warmth cannot be forgotten

Bringing Back Malawi

In a week, I will be flying across the ocean to return to the comforts of Waterford, Virginia.  My bags will have become lighter: many of the things we brought will have been left as gifts to our friends.  The other day I gave one of my polos to Matthews for his birthday.  His gratitude and joy was a wonder to experience.   I have given gifts and will return with more for my friends and family; however, I will not be just be bringing back items, but a little bit of Malawi.  Among the pieces of Malawi that will travel with me is a redefined sense of greeting, a gesture with a different meaning, a phrase, a Malawian attitude and renewed appreciation of the power of a smile.

I’ve spoken about the difference in greeting here: if you are walking and you pass a group of people, you extend your greeting to each individual.  I’ve found that it helps to forge a connection with every person you meet.  The importance of the style of greeting here in Malawi is two-fold: not only are you paying respect to every individual, but the frequency of greeting those who pass you by is exponentially higher than at home.  When passing another male, it is common to say “Wowa”, essentially meaning “Hey man, what’s up?”.  The word is often accompanied by a thumbs up.  The gesture is not a sign of approval, but of greeting.  I can’t get enough of it and neither can the older men who receive a thumbs of from me. Hopefully, I can bring back a little bit of Malawian style to greeting people in the States.

Last weekend my sister and I ventured into the craft market again in order to buy some gifts for people back home.  This time we armed ourselves with the Spanish language, using it communicate what we liked and didn’t like at each of the vendors.  Normally, the vendors would pick up what we wanted to buy when we spoke English and would hassle us to buy something.  The Spanish greatly confused them – they were unable to decipher our comments about “la cosa de la madre y el hijo”, or “the thing of the mother and child” – making the shopping an event of great success.  The vendors were not the only ones exposed to new vernacular: a man we met introduced me to a new phrase that I plan on using.  After the man read the words on my shirt (Lifetime Fitness), we began to chat and I asked him how he was, receiving a response of “extra super”.  Next time someone asks me how I am, they will occasionally get a bit of Malawian vernacular when I respond, “Extra super!”.

His response is typical of many Malawians, who espouse an attitude of optimism and hope.  A commonly heard word around here is “Chabwino”, meaning “it’s all good, no worries, whatever” all rolled into one.  In the month I’ve been here, I have yet to see a single Malawian show signs of stress in an environment that places many demands on the people here.  The other day I passed a young boy, maybe five years old, expertly wielding a hoe in the family garden.  The women here are strong – many are open with their HIV status and work hard to get their children tested.  This attitude of no worries must be ingrained in their culture as everyone hopes for tomorrow.  Last night, I asked a Malawian man why he thought his people were like this.  He offered an enlightened response: “We do not view our problems and struggles as burdens, only as something we must get through.  In the end, we know that tomorrow is a gift. Tomorrow is a blessing and it is tomorrow that we can always look to.” These words, spilling from the mouth of a smiling Malawian on a beautiful night filled with stars that shine the brightest I’ve seen, struck me as poetic and a testimony of Malawians and the human spirit in general.

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Young girl moves with purpose through the woods

When my sister first came back from Malawi, she remarked on the nature of a smile here and found a pertinent quote:

“A smile costs nothing but gives much. It enriches those who receive without making poorer those who give. It takes but a moment, but the memory of it sometimes lasts forever. None is so rich or mighty that he cannot get along without it and none is so poor that he cannot be made rich by it. Yet a smile cannot be bought, begged, borrowed, or stolen, for it is something that is of no value to anyone until it is given away. Some people are too tired to give you a smile. Give them one of yours, as none needs a smile so much as he who has no more to give.”

Smiles here are plentiful.  Whether it be from a young child as he or she screams “Azungu!” in delight, or a mother who smiles at her child’s fear of an azungu, smiles decorate the red landscape wherever you travel.   Never again will I underestimate the power of a smile.

A few smiles:

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Malifa, Grace, and Rodrick

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Smiling faces

Those are among the many things I want to bring back from Malawi.  Mwina (maybe, in Chechewa), being here for this long has taught me to dance half as well as the Malawians…

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Dancing at the technical college

Life is a People Sandwich

The other day I was talking with a friend about her experiences in Jamaica, where she went with a group from my high school to work on building projects in impoverished areas.  After her and I began to talk about both our experiences in different worlds, we came to a similar conclusion: it’s all about the people you interact with.

From the moment the rooster rudely awakens me in the morning to the second I close my eyes and enter the dream world, my day is filled with characters.

Every morning a young man named Matthews comes to our guesthouse to help me translate the text messages from Chichewa to English sent between St. Gabriel’s and the community health workers using FrontlineSMS, a project set up here in by my brother.  The translation of these messages will benefit projects of my mother, brother and my brother’s accomplices.  We work hard for two hours – pounding out around 300 translations every session.  Matthews is quiet but extremely hardworking: he is using the money we pay him to help translate to buy books for school.  I routinely ask him, “Matthews, are you tired? We can stop if you’d like” only to have him respond, “No, it’s okay”.  The two of us get in a zone as we try to make sense of each other – a fusing of two cultures. Coincidentally, my brother, currently in Neno, Malawi, is working with Matthew’s brother, Henry in implementing FrontlineSMS there.  Josh has similar positive reports for Henry.  Funny the way things are connected: two pairs of brothers working with each other, hours away.

When Josh described Henry, he said he was “the Alex of Neno”.  Alexander Ngalande is the superstar nurse here at St. Gabriel’s. He is a cheerful and extremely friendly person: the right type to head the Home Based Care program.  Whenever I run into him in the hallways of the hospital, I can’t help but smile.  One time I walked into the ART clinic seeing him update the databases, a pleasure he normally reserves for me and exclaimed, “Alex, this is the first time I’ve seen you actually do the mastercards… You must be having a lot of fun,”.  Alex playfully responded, “It’s going about as fast as an airplane landing”.  Alex is committed to his important role at the hospital and a pleasure to be around.

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Alex helping me load FrontlineSMS messages onto a USB drive

Just a few rooms down from where Alex works at the ART Clinic is the pharmacy, where I go to after working with Matthews to see if my help is needed by Sister Honesta Bicycle (you didn’t read incorrectly – her last name is Bicycle). Not surprisingly, she always welcomes my help.  Sister Honesta is honestly one of the funniest people I have ever met and a blast to hang out every day with.  She asks many questions about America, planes, sports and why I haven’t visited the nun convent yet.

While I’m working in the pharmacy, Peter, a health attendant in the male ward, often drops in to chat with me.  He is also a community health worker and is trying to become more involved in the hospital – often a huge help to my mother as she performs physical therapy.  A recent conversation brought a wealth of wisdom that I don’t think he realized he was giving.  I had asked him if he could have any job in the world, what job would he have.  He told me that he would be a nurse or an accountant, but he does not have the money to go to school.  It really made me think about the opportunities that have been given me because of the country I am from.  Not only that, but I now see those opportunities (a college education at a school like Carnegie Mellon) as a mandate to give the gifts I’ve been given back to the world in whatever way possible.  To much is given, much is expected.  I hope to hold to that as I take advantage of the opportunities that I see many are not offered.

During lunch break, my sister and I often go for a run.  On the winding paths through the landscape we encounter many people from the villages built around the trail and those walking on it.  The other day, I was running by myself and a man, around 25 years old, started to run with me.  I knew none of the Chichewa he was speaking, but I saw the wide smile on his face as he ran, in his crocs and jeans, with me for 15 minutes: a surreal experience to say the least.  After I had turned around and run back to his home, I stopped to thank him.

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Man that came with me for a run

Today my sister and I were running and a flock of children came to run with us, all under the age of 6. They are much like the children that wait to play soccer every day with us after work.  Playing soccer with them is always a joy – they go wild when I run fast and score goals, demanding high fives and excitedly yelling the score of the game.  Their laughter and smiles could light the world – two universal gestures that never seem to lose their value.

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Kids that followed us on a run all the way to a bridge

Sometimes at the soccer field we run into Deus, a longtime family friend here in Malawi.  Last weekend we came to his family’s house to see a traditional Malawian meal cooked: chicken (slaughtered before our eyes), rice, vegetables and nsima (corn flour mush – a staple here).  I even got the experience of eating an egg that was inside the chicken.  They were very committed to helping us learn the process, explaining every step along the way.  Deus has a 3.5 year old son named Prince Patrick, who is playful and a blast to interact with as he pokes you and runs away into another part of the house.

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Deus and his wife, Regina

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Prince

After dinner at the guesthouse I will occasionally go to the other house for a game of cards with the other visitors. They hail from all over the world: Scotland, the Netherlands, Belgium, Ireland and America.  It’s a melting pot and the card games are always fun and exciting: competitive spoons is making a revival here in Malawi.

As I sit in my bed each day, all I can do is reflect on the people I meet and interact with every day.  They are the heart of life and the connections you forge with fellow human beings can provide valuable lessons.  I am hope I can internalize these lessons.

Life is a people sandwich, take a bite.

Into the Warm Heart

Weekends are for adventure. On Saturday, Elizabeth, Yiwen and I ventured into Lilongwe to get some groceries, look for electrical supplies and experience Malawi’s capital city.

The journey begins on the back of a bike taxi. You quickly learn to hold on tight and predict the bumps. Once you have those two things down, the 5 minute bike ride to Namitete is really enjoyable as you can sit and observe the winding roads, walking people and the beautiful landscape. After paying the 150 kwacha ($1) we caught a mini-bus. These buses ferry people all across the country, making a bunch of stops, picking and dropping off their passengers. It’s always an adventure to ride a mini-bus. You have no clue who (or what) will end up in your car, as they pack 25 people into the small space. We encountered men with body sized packs of beans, many babies, numerous chickens, what appeared to be flirting youngsters and an old lady arguing the price with the money collector.

After we were dropped off at the bus station, we set out to find Shoprite, the best place to buy groceries. This took us a while. We really had no clue where we were, and we walked around asking where it was, only to be directed to the wrong Shoprite, halfway across the city. Yiwen needed to exchange some money, so we went searching for a bank but had no luck. She decided to withdraw some money from an ATM, so while she was waiting in line Elizabeth and I ventured into the craft market.

This market has beautiful products. That’s an understatement. The things there would go for considerable dough in the States. The wood carvings – figurines, necklaces, bowls and more – are serious works of art. Elizabeth and I walked by every shop, which is essentially products laid out on a blanket with their creators standing nearby. Every shop seemed to be offering both “Saturday discounts” and “very good cheap prices”. I was very interested in the paintings: they were longer than a piece of paper but had a smaller width. Simply put, they were stunning. As I browsed one set of paintings, the man greeted me and I told him I was just browsing. Smiling, he replied: “Looking is for free, man”. I fell in love with the paintings, and decided I would purchase one, along with a small necklace that has a small carving of Africa, with the face of the Mother of Africa etched into the continents contours.

As soon as all the vendors realized that I wanted to purchase a painting, they came over. I mean it. Every single person with paintings to sell came over to me to show me their product. With about 12 different vendors shouting at me, I tried to make it a fair process and look at them one at a time. Some were very patient – others were not. After about 10 minutes of looking at a hundred different paintings, I decided on a vibrant blue painting depicting a elongated body of a women balancing a pot on her head with a baby slung on her back. It disappointed many of the vendors – they were all trying to make some money to get back home. One solicited my sister and we collected two more for a very cheap price of 500 kwacha, but away from the rest of the group. You can’t experience Malawi without going to the bargaining table with some vendors.

After doing some grocery shopping and grabbing a bite to eat at a relatively upscale restaurant, we headed back home. We stumbled upon an electronics store after failing to find any around Shoprite. The store ended up having all the parts we needed for the incubator – so the trip became a roaring success. The people at the store were very helpful (surprise, surprise). With electronics, bananas and oranges in hands and groceries in our backpacks, we made the trek back to the buses and then home.

After sleeping in late into Sunday morning, my sister and mother wanted to go on a long run and I decided to join them. We brought our cameras with us, intending to do a sort of Yes Man-jogging-photography thing. We ran the dirt roads for about 2 hours, and walked through the villages that we encountered.

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Kids running after us as we exited the village, still very excited about the prospect of getting a picture taken

The kids were hilarious. They shout “Azungoo, azungoo!” every time they see a white person. Azungoo is actually not a derogatory term and the tone they strike when saying it reinforces that. We would stop and say hi to the mothers and kids as we passed through the plethora of villages that dot the Malawian landscape. On the roads we met lots of people on bikes and on foot. One group of women started to run with us, baskets on their head and all. My mom even attempted to balance one of the baskets on her head but with little success.

It was a spectacular day to be running through the countryside. The sky was the brightest of blues and looking down on the trails you could see off into the distance.

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View of one of the long dirt trails we trotted upon

We came across a fence and decided to investigate. After walking up closer, we could see over and a man greeted us. He then went on to explain the operation – about 330 beds of tobacco were being nurtured inside the fences and covered with plastic. Typical of a Malawian, the man was friendly and wanted to chat for a few minutes.

We finally circled back into the area near St. Gabriel’s and stopped by at two of the houses of people we knew: Peter and Kennedy. On the way to their houses, we passed a women making sema (a staple food here – essentially corn, salt and water) and stopped to chat.

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A smiling woman makes her n'sema

We finally made it back to our house. I passed out as soon as I had some food in me.

I spent the rest of the afternoon cracking the nuts that Kennedy gave me out of their shell in preparation for their roasting, reflecting on Malawi’s title as the Warm Heart of Africa. As I enjoyed the beautiful rays of sun on the stoop of our house, cracking nuts, with a friendly but humungous dog named Bobby sitting patiently next to me, greeting the people walking by our house – I again reflected that the title had little to do with the weather.

People at Work

St. Gabiel’s is a hospital in Namitete, a rural area in Malawi about an hour away from its capital of Lilongwe. The hospital was founded by a group of nuns from Luxemburg. Recently, the hospital celebrated its 50th anniversary. They put on displays with old pictures and it was wild to see the evolution of the place and very interesting to see some of the older staff members in their younger days. Many of the nuns work in the hospital as nurses or members of the hospital staff.

The hospital serves a catchment area of about a hundred kilometer radius. This brings a lot of people to the hospital and with them comes a lot of work. I have my hands full with numerous projects.

The pharmacy always needs help. Today, Elizabeth, Yiwen and I spent some time working there. We counted and weighed pills and put them into bags so that they could be handed out. We played a game where you tried to grab the exact number of pills needed for each bag. Miraculously, I started it off by getting it first time. Unfortunately, my sister answered with 6 more perfect and I admitted defeat.

The ART Clinic, which deals with HIV positive patients, is another place that could always use a hand. Alex, the extraordinary man that is runs the clinic, is a humorous guy to be around. In the clinic I’ve been working on entering the data from each day (meaning what patients have come to check up, how well they’ve been doing with pill adherence and their weight) into the clinic’s records. Always trying to make something mundane more interesting, I invented a game using the patient numbers, which range from 1 to 2100. For each patient number, we try to figure out something that was happening in history. For example, one patient number was 1783 and somehow I remembered that this particular year the American Revolution concluded with the Treaty of Paris.

I’m also helping my sister’s project here at St. Gabriel’s. Elizabeth and her fellow Rice classmate, Yiwen, are attempting to build an incubator for the hospital. Often a mother will give birth to a child early and the baby will end up being very small. In order for it to be healthy, it needs to be kept very warm. In the place of an incubator, which normally does the job back in the US, the hospital has a “Kangaroo Room” where the new mother and her child are supposed to stay, with the mother using her body heat to keep the baby warm (like a kangaroo’s pouch). However, we visited the Kangaroo Room today and according to the staff there, these directions have not been followed very well. Hopefully a new incubator will provide a solution. In order to build the incubator, we visited the Namitete Furniture Factory to see if they could help us with the carpentry and assembly. Today we saw a lot of progress: almost all the pieces have been created and cut to their proper dimensions. Soon, potentially tomorrow, we will start building the incubator while we wait for some other parts.

I’ve just begun helping my mother, a physical therapist, train two hospital workers in basic physical therapy. The two women are cleaners for the hospital right now, and with the help of my mother, they can perform some physical therapy for the post-op patients. To help their learning process and give them some motivation, my mother and I have begun making short videos where they explain what they have learned in each lesson. Today, my mother taught them how to approach a patient (for example, if they patient’s injury is on their right side, approach the right side of the bed so that they won’t have to reach and strain their back in order to do physical therapy with the patient) and what kind of things to look out for when seeing a patient for the first time (e.g. bandages or IVs). I plan on taking all these videos and compiling them on a instructional DVD so that it can continue training people once we leave Malawi. We hope to have each video lesson in both Chichewa and English which would do a great job in bridging language barriers.

The two women that my mother and I are training are not alone. Many of the people that work at the hospital are also Community Health Workers (CHWs). CHWs provide home-based care to many patients who cannot make it back to the hospital for various reasons. They check drug adherence, symptoms and other problems that might be occurring. These are the people that my brother works with to institute his FrontlineSMS program, which uses cell phones and text messages for communication between CHWs and rural hospitals such as St. Gabriel’s. We sat in on a CHW training session, where they were learning more about how to best provide care to their patients. These people are an inspiration – they volunteer their time to better their community and are very committed to their responsibilities.

My mom’s physical therapy adventures in Malawi have brought her into contact with many people here. Yesterday, my mother and visited a patient in a wheelchair, who she has been working with for four years each summer. The man was paraplegic and has made a lot of progress since they first met – he is now able to stand and walk with help. We brought him a netbook, which is a smaller laptop with the same functionality but longer battery life, so that he can begin his work as an accountant again. The joy in his eyes as I set up the computer for him was rewarding in so many ways. He was very grateful – the first thing he did was open a word document and start typing away a thank you letter to those involved in getting the netbook to him and his family.

The people are what make this hospital. From the administrator to the man who sweeps the leaves, everyone is committed to their role. They are always friendly – yesterday I talked with a man named Kennedy, who offered me to try some ground nuts, a sign of respect here in Malawi. I graciously accepted, and today he went out of his way to drop them off at our house and explained that he grew them himself. I can’t seem to get over the friendliness and generosity of the people here: it is not only refreshing but changes your own outlook as well.

A Different World

You can only be so prepared when you journey to another country. My first experiences in Malawi are no exception. I had heard many stories from my mother, sister and brother about the people and the way of life; however, I really had to experience it myself.

When I arrived late Monday, after easy travels through Johannesburg and Lilongwe, my time in Malawi began. Knocking on the door was Willis, a friend of my family. After we were introduced, Willis asked if I would like to come visit his house. My sister and mother gave reassuring looks, so I accepted his invitation and we walked to his house together. As we sat in his small room, he asked many questions: what sports I played, the music I listened to and whether I had any musical talent. He promptly gathered a keyboard from his house and beckoned one of his younger siblings to play, who ended up being very talented. Before we left Willis’s, I met many more of his brothers and sisters. Family is important here.

Willis asked if it was okay if we ventured to the market so his brother, John, could buy some tomatoes. I saw no reason to refuse, so we walked for a few minutes to a market long after the sun had set, where we stopped to chat with a fish vendor. The vendor greeted me with kind spirit and a phrase I had heard before: “Welcome to the Warm Heart of Africa”. This proved to be a theme in Malawi - I felt very welcome and the country lived up to its nickname.

My sister woke me up at 6AM for a run. I was dead tired but I soon noticed just how gorgeous the scenery was. The sky seems to stretch on forever - I felt like I had never been able to see that far in my life.

After getting dressed, I walked to the St. Gabriel’s hospital with my sister, mother and Yiwen (a classmate of my sister who came to Malawi to work on a project that I will detail in further posts). There we toured the facilities and I encountered another common theme in Malawi - the practice of greeting one another.

Back home, it’s expected that you greet your friends. Here the same applies, but it extends to everyone. Just passing someone there’s a good chance they will stop to say “Hello!” and “How are you?”. I’m still getting the hang of Chichewa, the language of Malawi and many times today I sound foolish trying to talk with them. They answer my stumbles with a warm smile and a goodhearted laugh. This process of greeting really brings a smile to my face every time. You really feel welcome even though you know you’re out of place.

I did plenty of work today. The pharmacy always needs help counting pills - I put in some work today and became adept at counting and putting the pills (today: aspirin) into containers for distribution. After trial and error, I finally found the best method was to keep the pills in your hand and slide them into the container.

Later, I went to the ART (Antiretroviral Treatment - used for HIV/AIDS) Clinic to help out. There I met Alex, the head nurse at St. Gabriel’s who does Home Based Care, who works with FrontlineSMS (the project my brother works on) as well as in the clinic. Alex is a hilarious guy to hang out with and I really enjoyed working there even though our job was mundane. We put ourselves to work updating the ART “databases” (by databases I mean huge binders full of every patient’s visit history). It’s a lengthy process but somehow my sister, Yiwen and I had a good time doing so and chatting with Alex.

After work, we walked back to the house we are staying in and were promptly ambushed by a group of youngsters. I had heard so many things about this group of kids and it was amazing to finally see them in person. They wanted to play soccer with us, so we grabbed a ball from our house and headed to the field. I’ve never felt such joy playing soccer in my life. Playing on a dirt field with kids barefoot, screaming, laughing and smiling is an unforgettable feeling.

Walking around St. Gabriel’s and the surrounding area is astonishing. To see people in their day to day lives - collecting wood, starting fires, walking everywhere, and living in their humble homes puts me in a different world. A different world where bitterness is put aside and warm smiles greet each other. A different world where people walk miles to get to a hospital. A different world where kids wander around with each other waiting for their foreign friends finish working at the hospital so that they can play soccer. This different world also made part of a dream come true - as the sun dropped after what seemed like a long day, I stood beneath an orange sky. A beautiful, clear and inviting orange sky. I think I like this different world.

Beginning

I’m 17 years old and next fall I will enter my senior year in high school. This summer I’m taking a month from my summer vacation to journey to Malawi, a country in southeast Africa. There, I’ll be working on a number of projects, ranging from helping my sister build incubators to aiding my mother with her instruction of physical therapy. To say the least, I’ll be busy.

I’m naming this blog The Orange Sky after one of my favorite songs by an artist named Alexi Murdoch.

Take a listen.

The song always struck a chord with me. In it, Murdoch expresses his dream of an “orange sky, with his brother and sister standing by”. Family has always been important to me. They are, in fact, the reason for my upcoming trip to Malawi. Years ago my sister, Elizabeth, went to Malawi with my mother, and the following year my brother Josh took a trip. From their own experiences in Malawi, my brother and sister have set their minds to impacting the world for the better using their outstanding education (Josh, as a recent graduate of Stanford and Elizabeth as a upcoming graduate of Rice). They are an inspiration to me and no matter where they are on the globe, listening to the song connects me to them.

Murdoch also sings that his “salvation lies in your love." I’m a strong believer that the well-being of every person lies in the compassion and empathy towards others. I think our capacity to connect with others while we live our short time in this world is fundamental to our existence.

While Alexi Murdoch enchants his listeners to imagine an orange sky, I hope my own experiences in Malawi open my eyes to the discovery of my very own orange sky.

I’m almost done with my packing - Mom is a veteran traveler and she told me exactly what I needed. Our plane takes off Sunday morning to New York, where my Mom and I will head straight to Johannesburg. From there, one more plane ride to Malawi!

Simply put: I cannot wait.